71 Things You Need To Know Before Planting Flower Seeds In Your Garden

This time, we’re going to talk about How To Plant Flower Seeds In Garden. There is a lot of information about 10 Flower Seeds You Can Direct Sow Outside on the internet, of course. Social media are getting better and better quickly, which makes it easier for us to learn new things.

Go wild in the garden: how to sow your own wildflower meadow and Flower Seed Planting Tips are also linked to information about 7 Things to Know When Growing a Wildflower Garden. As for other things that need to be looked up, they are about How To Grow Flowers From Seeds Faster and have something to do with Planting Wildflowers Without Tilling.

71 Things You Should Know About How To Plant Flower Seeds In Garden | 7 Things to Know When Growing a Wildflower Garden

• Pay attention to the seed packet directions – don’t sow your seeds too thickly or you’ll just have to pull most of them out. Then again, not all seeds will germinate, some will be eaten by birds, squirrels, and other animals, some will be washed away by rain or watering while others will fry during an unexpectedly hot day, some will be killed by pathogens in your garden soil, …. The bottom line – sow seeds a little more heavily than the seed packet says and keep a close eye on them. - Source: Internet
• Growing sweet pea from seed is all about getting the timing right. In zones 7 and below, direct sow sweet peas in the garden before the last frost date, in late winter or early spring. In zones 8 and above, plant seeds in late fall. - Source: Internet
• Common morning glory (I. purpurea), blue morning glory (I. indica) and heavenly blue morning glory (I. tricolor) are popular picks for the garden. - Source: Internet
• Cosmos, for instance, with their cheery daisy-like blooms in shades of carmine-pink and white. Dainty cornflowers too, in shades of cobalt blue, moody plum, snow white and candy pink as well as burnt-orange poppies, fiery marigolds and coreopsis, scarlet malope, frothy ammi, dainty toadflax, purple honeywort, feathery love-in-a-mist, fragrant candytuft and a host of other hardworking floriferous species. In short, a smorgasbord of pretties to provide months of vibrant, long-lasting colour through summer into late autumn. - Source: Internet
• Sowing seeds directly into the garden where they are to grow and mature is the ideal way of rearing plants. From seed to harvest there is no physical interruption to the growing process. This suits a range of crops – especially root vegetables such as carrots, beetroot, parsnips and turnips whose seedlings – with fledgling tap roots - can easily be damaged if they are transplanted into the garden from punnets or trays. Seeds are also generally sown straight into the garden in spring as weather clears, becoming warmer and more stable with the odd shower to help things along. - Source: Internet
• You can either purchase seed packets and mix the seed yourself, or a wildflower seed company may mix it for you on request. Order seed early in the summer to avoid shortages of popular mixes or species. Ask to have the (large and fluffy) native grass seed packaged separately from the (mostly tiny) wildflower seed. Store the wildflower seed in the refrigerator until planting time. The grass seed would ideally be refrigerated as well, but if there isn’t room for it, keep it in another cool dry place. - Source: Internet
• Generally speaking, most perennial wildflower species are considered drought tolerant, but only after they have become well established, which is typically by their second season. It is good to understand, most spring and summer seasons will not provide enough rainfall events to make perennial wildflowers thrive. Supplemental irrigation is an important preparation factor that must be considered before seeding happens. - Source: Internet
• There are so many wonderful varieties of vegetables and flowers that you generally can’t find in the garden center. These are great candidates for growing from seed. I love heirloom tomatoes, squash, and beans, as well as interesting lettuces like Flashy Trout Back and Ruby Gem, so I grow them all from seed. - Source: Internet
• Introduce coneflowers to the garden by sowing seeds outdoors in early spring or fall. Cover the seeds up lightly with soil, about 1/8-inch deep. Coneflower seedlings will emerge in 10 to 21 days. - Source: Internet
• Don’t overlook other interesting Ipomoea morning glories though. Wild potato vine (I. pandurata) is a North American native that blooms with brilliant white flowers that have a shock of purple deep in the floral throat. As its name suggests, this species produces edible tubers that taste similar to yams. - Source: Internet
• Four options for reducing the weed seed bank are presented below. Any of these strategies should be implemented for the entire growing season prior to planting the meadow mix. The first two methods tend to be most effective for annuals and some perennials reproducing from seeds, but are less effective where perennial grasses are already well-established; if that is the case, use of herbicides or the smothering method described above is more effective. - Source: Internet
• A carefully curated wildflower garden filled with native plants shouldn’t require much intervention, even in terms of watering. Many wildflowers are drought-tolerant. However, if the summer season is unusually hot and dry, make sure to water your flower garden. Even the hardiest blooms will suffer in lengthy periods of dry heat. Giving plants a drink when they’re suffering ensures the garden stays looking brilliant and beautiful all season long. - Source: Internet
• Peat moss is the cheapest and most economical way, next is sawdust and then potting soil. Use one of these three – spreading a 1/2″ to 3/4″ layer on top of your soil. By using one of these on top the soil already there, you will help prevent many of the weeds from growing in your flowerbed. - Source: Internet
• Start seeds in a soil that is weed free, or at least without significant weed pressure. Weedy plants tend to germinate and grow faster than most typical vegetable, flower, and herb seeds. Once all these things are growing together you might have trouble separating weeds from the plants you want. Starting seeds in a separate weed-free soil medium (such as a quality store-bought potting soil) and then later transplanting is one way to eliminate this problem altogether. This also helps you learn to identify your plants at a very early stage–most helpful if you’re just getting started. - Source: Internet
• Lupine seeds should be soaked in water for 24 hours before sowing them in the garden. Seed planting can be done in early spring, as soon as the soil can be worked. Lupine seeds can take anywhere from 14 to 60 days to germinate. - Source: Internet
• The blooms are excellent as cut flowers. A cut-and-come-again specimen, the more you pick sweet pea flowers, the more they will bloom. And as a legume, the plant itself is a great little nitrogen fixer. - Source: Internet
• Not all wildflowers are suitable for all conditions. A site with full sun and good drainage is ideal for many species, but partial shade and/or wet areas can be tolerated by many others. Consider your site and soil conditions carefully in order to select an appropriate wildflower mix. - Source: Internet
• Unless your garden is a very mild and sheltered one, don’t be so seduced by the long, bright evenings, milder daytime temperatures and colourful shop displays of bedding geraniums, lobelias and petunias into thinking that a hard frost is no longer a possibility and that it’s safe to plant out tender bedding plants. All it takes is one cold night of close to sub-zero temperatures to cause serious damage to them, especially if they haven’t been properly hardened off (gradually acclimatised to colder temperatures). So play it safe until the end of May, the time of the year traditionally considered safe for planting out. If you’ve already taken a gamble by planting them outdoors, then keep some horticultural fleece or even old newspaper at hand to protect vulnerable plants on chilly nights. - Source: Internet
• Early May is all go, go, go in the vegetable garden and the time to make direct sowings (into well-prepared, weed-free, raked soil) of seed of early carrots, beetroots, turnips, peas, runner beans, chard, radish, parsnips and annual spinach. But if your plot is one where emerging seedlings repeatedly suffer bad slug or snail damage, then many of these vegetables can be sown in modules for transplanting into the garden once they’ve germinated and grown on a little, giving them a far better chance of survival. The only exceptions are crops with tap roots (examples include carrots, parsnips), which generally don’t transplant well and should almost always be direct-sown. - Source: Internet
• Prepare a stale seedbed as far in advance of sowing as possible. A stale or false seedbed is a weed management practice whereby a seedbed is created a number of weeks before sowing, allowing weed seeds just below the soil surface to germinate. The young weeds can then be eradicated before sowing your seed. - Source: Internet
• For beginners, it’s far more educational. It requires someone being able to accept that there are mistakes, limitations, and that’s just in gardening overall. How you come back from those mistakes is the teaching point. - Source: Internet
• Choose an area that already has plants growing in it, so you know it is not too damp or shady. Generally, flowers full sunshine, so aim for a spot that is open and bright. If your conditions are particularly dry, wet, or shady, look for our mixes packed with plants that grow well in these challenging conditions. - Source: Internet
• All season long, morning glories bloom continuously with large, deep throated trumpet flowers, each one opening in the morning and fading by the afternoon. Moonflower (I. alba) does the opposite, blooming with white flowers only at night. - Source: Internet
• Creating a wildflower meadow or patch is not an illusion at all it is a carefully planned and executed garden just like any other. You do not have to be Houdini or David Copperfield to end up with a beautiful wildflower garden. Follow these simple guidelines of when to plant, where to plant, and how to plant to maximize your perennial wildflower magic! - Source: Internet
• For native pollinator gardens, plant sand violets (V. affinis), evergreen violet (V. sempervirens), or bird’s foot violet (V. pedata). - Source: Internet
• Picture it—an oasis of wildflowers dotted with blooms of various shapes and sizes. Bees and butterflies are buzzing and flitting from nectar-filled flowers to sun-soaked resting spots. It sounds positively idyllic. But planting and growing a wildflower garden involves more than tossing random seeds onto a bare patch of grass. A bit of planning and careful consideration can net you a gorgeous, colorful flower garden filled with plants that support local wildlife. - Source: Internet
• There are many wildflower mixes available from reputable seed companies1 , or you can design your own mix. Pre-made mixes may be convenient, but must be selected carefully to avoid paying for species that are unlikely to be successful in New England, or that might be overly aggressive. Less expensive mixes frequently contain a higher proportion of grasses than desired for good pollinator habitat. - Source: Internet
• Plant your seed after all danger of frost is past. Sprinkle seeds over your new planting surface you have made and then water your planted area. The water will push the seeds into the soft soil just enough for them to grow. (Wildflower Seeds only want to be in the ground as deep as the seeds are long). - Source: Internet
• Meadows provide many important ecosystem services including infiltration and filtration of stormwater, carbon storage, nutrient recycling, soil building, and provisioning of food and shelter for biodiverse communities of flora and fauna. By establishing native perennials and grasses in a dense and diverse meadow planting, property owners can enjoy the beauty of a succession of flowers and plant forms and experience a renewed connection with nature. Done properly, wildflower meadows are ecologically-friendly landscape components that, once established, have minimal maintenance requirements. - Source: Internet
• Leave the soil covered from mid-June until mid-September. When you remove the plastic or other mulch materials, you will have bare soil on which to plant. Avoid disturbing this clean seed bed; do not till the prepared area or you may stimulate more weed growth. Do not apply compost, manure or other nitrogen-rich material, because wildflowers do best in soil that is low in nutrients. If needed, rake lightly to remove dead grasses and surface debris just before spreading the wildflower seed. - Source: Internet
• Plant sunflower seeds in a sunny spot once all risk of frost has passed in spring. The seeds will sprout in roughly 7 days. Common sunflower grows very fast and will bear its cheerful flowers in late summer, when most other blooms are spent. - Source: Internet
• A place where bees can come and go safely with little disturbance or exposure to pesticides or other household chemicals is ideal. Many native bees need patches of bare soil nearby in which to make their nests; others will nest in small holes in dead wood or stems, in cavities in stone walls or in leaf litter or debris piles. These features are often found along the edges of fields or woodlands and should be preserved. Some people build or purchase bee boxes or bee houses to encourage mason bees and other solitary bees to nest near their crops or gardens. - Source: Internet
• Sow poppy seeds outdoors before the last frost in early spring. There’s no need to bury them, simply scatter seeds over the surface of the soil. Seeds will sprout in 20 to 30 days. - Source: Internet
• It’s always changing! I’ve spent a good amount of my agricultural career growing the typical garden vegetable plants. In the past few years I’ve focused more on hardy perennial shrubs that don’t require a lot of water and nutrients, and in most cases are native to the Mediterranean climate here in Ojai. Sages, Elderberry, California Buckwheat, that sort of stuff. I also like working with catnip and catmint because my cat Ivan loves the process of seed harvest. - Source: Internet
• Also, I would think about your crops. If we’re talking about limited space or containers, we have to talk about root mass and what those crops take up or how fast they grow, because we’re dealing with all kinds of variables in raised beds and bounded space. We tried to get a friend’s herb garden set up; they probably had 4 square feet of area, and they had rosemary and oregano in there, and I thought, we have to move those. You won’t be able to do anything else if those perennials take over. - Source: Internet
• Smothering with black plastic excludes light from the underlying weeds, preventing photosynthesis which is essential for plants to survive over time. Although black plastic absorbs some heat during the day, soil temperatures underneath do not get high enough for long enough to kill weed seeds. Solarization, in contrast, acts by trapping solar radiation and converting it to heat underneath clear plastic sheeting. Extreme temperatures for long durations can reduce viability of sensitive weed seeds, although the results are inconsistent in our climate. - Source: Internet
• The extensive breeding of Echinacea has resulted in a massive array of coneflower options to grow from seed. Though purple coneflower (E. purpurea) will always be in style, newer cultivars take on a myriad of vibrant or pastel shades, with fluffy flowers or double flowers that change up coneflower’s look completely. - Source: Internet
• If you’re growing tulips in the ground, you’ll greatly increase their chances of perennialising by giving them a fortnightly liquid tomato feed until the foliage yellows and naturally dies down. If you’re growing them and other spring-flowering bulbs in pots or containers that you want to free up for summer bedding displays, then gently tip the bulbs out (foliage and all) and temporarily transplant them in an unused corner of the garden or allotment. Keep them well watered and regularly liquid-fed as described above until the foliage naturally dies down, then lift them, cut the faded stems and leaves off and store the bulbs in a cool, dry shed for transplanting back into the garden in autumn. - Source: Internet
• Plants with small seeds are sown in patches or rows and seedlings are thinned as they grow to provide adequate space for mature, productive plants. This initial ‘over-planting’ helps to insure against the potential damage that can be caused by slugs, snails and other pests.. By the time plants are thinned they have hopefully reached a size that will be able to endure the odd nibble. Plants like dwarf beans with larger seeds are usually sown two or three seeds to a hole and the strongest seedling is selected once they have sprouted and have formed leaves. The weaker seedlings are pinched out. - Source: Internet
• The meadow is an ever-changing landscape. Weather variations, soil conditions, and wildlife will determine which wildflowers and grasses become dominant and which fade away over time. In a wet year, plants like Joe Pye-weed and cardinal flower may flourish, while in a dry year bergamot and coneflowers may abound. Take a step back and enjoy the changes – a meadow is a process, not a product! - Source: Internet
• You can sow pansy seeds outdoors in autumn, or in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Barely cover the seeds with soil. Depending on the ground temperature, pansy seeds can take 20 to 50 days to poke up through the soil. - Source: Internet
• Crabgrass is a special challenge on some sites. A thick blanket of crabgrass can smother out germinating wildflowers, and is not sufficiently managed by mowing. There are few options for controlling crabgrass other than use of a post-emergent selective grass herbicides that can be sprayed over-the-top of wildflowers. One application to actively growing crabgrass before it goes to seed will effectively kill it, reopening the area to allow light to reach the underlying wildflowers. As with all herbicides and other pesticides, follow label directions carefully, and consider whether hiring a licensed applicator is required or prudent for the situation at hand. - Source: Internet
• Year 4 and beyond – You and the bees will reap the rewards of your efforts, enjoying a dense, diverse mix of colorful wildflowers from spring through late fall, when goldenrods and asters provide a fall feast for bees. Black-eyed Susan, coreopsis and a few others will diminish in numbers and tend to migrate to the edges of your meadow. The mid-summer meadow buzzes with bees and other insect pollinators, and birds reap the benefit of bugs and seeds to eat. Milkweed finds its place in the meadow, and monarchs feast on the nectar of many meadow flowers before laying their eggs on the undersides of milkweed leaves. Warm-season grasses fill in areas where the wildflowers are less dense, providing clumps that shelter ground-nesting bees and other creatures. - Source: Internet
• Seed mixes can be customized to meet your objectives and budget. The cost for the seed mix in Table 1 will run an average of $60-80 per 1000 square feet, if seeded at a rate of 20 lbs per acre (0.5 lbs/1000 square feet). If budget is not a limiting factor, you might want to add seeds of native lupine and butterfly weed, both of which require very dry soils. If your site tends to be wet, a more appropriate mix would contain cardinal flower, blue vervain, Culver’s root, golden Alexanders, boneset, swamp milkweed and Joe-Pye weed. - Source: Internet
• Most lupine species are indigenous to North America, with Big Leaf Lupine (L. polyphyllus) and Wild Lupine (L. perennis) as perennial garden favorites. The crossing of these and other lupine species has created a profusion of hybrids that have been specially bred for improved vigor and vibrance. - Source: Internet
• As true annuals, zinnias will die back after flowers have gone to seed. You can prompt more blooms by deadheading flowers when they start to fade. Be sure to allow a few flowerheads to fully mature so you can collect seeds to grow for next year. - Source: Internet
• Sow moss rose seeds in the garden after the last frost date. These seeds need light to germinate, so only barely cover them with soil. Moss rose will sprout around 14 days after planting. - Source: Internet
• In the low desert of Arizona, plant seeds for spring bloomers from September through December. Spring-blooming wildflowers typically germinate in early winter, bloom from February through April, and then drop seed in April and May. The seeds are dormant through the summer until rain and cooler temperatures begin the cycle again. - Source: Internet
• Quin Shakra is crazy about seeds. The owner of The Plant Good Seed Company in Ojai, California, specializes in small-scale farming, planting charts, and gardening education. He even co-authored a seed-saving comic book series. - Source: Internet
• Crops that are slower-growing “one hitters” such as cabbage or cauliflower tend to be less ideal for smaller spaces, mainly because they take a long time to grow and use a lot of the available space and soil nutrients while doing so. Things that you can perpetually harvest from (lettuce, arugula, cilantro, parsley, kale, collards) make better use of the space. Beets and lettuces are especially nice because they are crossover crops–they can be harvested one time, but they can also be leaf-harvested for a period of time. - Source: Internet
• Raking lightly with a metal lawn or leaf rake after broadcasting helps work the seeds into the soil, but rake only ¼” deep so you do not bury the tiny wildflower seeds. If the soil is firm and level, skip raking and go straight to rolling the area with a lawn roller, or a cultipacker, which will press the seed into the soil. Good seed to soil contact is essential for holding the seed in place over the winter and helps keep the seedlings from drying out once they germinate in the spring. And finally, a thin layer of clean straw (one bale per 1000 square feet) distributed lightly over the top helps keep the seed in place. - Source: Internet
• Rough turf or lawn areas – It is essential to completely kill existing grasses and other perennial weeds in a turf area before planting wildflowers. A full season of site preparation is critical to success, because young wildflower seedlings stay small and low to the ground their first year of growth and are not able to compete against more vigorous weeds. Perennial grasses, such as our cool season lawn and pasture grasses, spread from strong underground roots and rhizomes and are especially troublesome when trying to establish wildflowers. These and other perennial weeds can be effectively killed by a process called “smothering” during the course of the summer prior to planting wildflower seeds. Steps to take: - Source: Internet
• Spring is the time for planting wildflower seeds. These little seeds can be direct sown from late March to early May. If you’re aiming for an annual flower garden, planting early will give you a head start on flowering. - Source: Internet
• Get columbine started by sowing seeds in autumn or mid-winter. Columbine seeds need a 3 to 4 week chilling period to trigger germination. When the soil has warmed in spring, columbine will emerge in 30 to 90 days. - Source: Internet
• If this is your first time growing plants from seed, or you’re concerned about whether or not they’ll survive, you may want to start with larger seeds. They’re planted deeper and are tough enough to survive most outdoor conditions. Some of the easiest large seeds to grow are cucumbers, squash, beans, peas and sweet peas, marigolds, and sunflowers. - Source: Internet
• To say that morning glories easily grow from seed is a bit of an understatement. Sow them in the garden one year, and they will self-seed with reckless abandon – to a perhaps annoying degree – every year, forevermore. Pull up wayward seedlings each spring to keep them confined to the plot. - Source: Internet
• When planting wildflower seeds in cold areas that experience freezing temperatures and snowfall, it’s essential to prepare the ground for planting BEFORE the soil freezes. Once you have had several hard freezes, then plant your wildflower seeds. Seeds will be dormant through the winter and germinate as temperatures warm in the spring. - Source: Internet
• Thorough site preparation is also crucial to reduce the risk of aggressive weed growth quickly out-competing your annual meadow for light and nutrients. Bear in mind that all normal garden soils contain what is known in horticultural parlance as a “seed bank”, the natural accumulation over many years of the viable seed of a wide variety of native and non-native plants. Give these the right conditions for germination and off they’ll quickly romp. So to reduce their numbers, you’ll need to first create what’s known as a sterile seed-bed by deliberately depleting the shallow uppermost layer of soil of this hidden stash of seeds. - Source: Internet
• Perennials like oregano, unless that’s the only thing you want to grow there. Try for a mixture of crops, if you want flowers and leafy greens, you might want to separate the herbs away from other seeds, versus trying to aggregate everything all at once. You don’t want to plop in a perennial that will just keep taking all the water and soil area, colonizing the area and nutrients from anything else in that space. Some of those can be quasi-invasive if they’re not kept in check. - Source: Internet
• Another option is to use a seeding square to sow seeds at precisely the right spacing for square foot gardening (or intensive cropping). This takes the guess-work out of seed sowing and makes the job much easier as you don’t have to measure off a 1 by 1-foot grid. Here are some good options: - Source: Internet
• Sow annual wildflowers in the spring by scattering them and covering them lightly with soil. You can also seed in the fall, but there’s a higher chance that wildlife will find and munch on the seeds. Some flower seeds must be planted in the fall because they need to undergo a period of vernalization or exposure to cold. To plant seeds, make sure the soil is moist, sprinkle seeds in the planting area, and cover lightly with soil or mulch. It can take up to 3 weeks for some seeds to germinate. - Source: Internet
• A suggested wildflower mix for medium to dry sites in full to partial sun is given in Table 1. This list is composed of reliable species that have performed well in research trials at the NH Agricultural Experiment Station in Durham and elsewhere around the state. Not every species will thrive (or even survive) on every site, but most are widely adaptable. - Source: Internet
• Don’t be tempted to leave all the seedlings in the bed, thinking you’ll get more for your money. Be ruthless. Without enough space, plants can’t develop the strong stems, leaves, and roots needed to produce flowers and vegetables. And without enough room for air to circulate, you increase the risk of diseases like powdery mildew. - Source: Internet
• If you’re growing vegetables, make sure you choose vegetable varieties that suit the length of your growing season – you want to be able to harvest your crop before end-of-season frost arrives. For gardeners in many regions, that means you probably won’t be able to direct-sow edibles that demand a long, warm growing season, such as tomatoes and eggplants. Those crops may require that you buy seedlings from your local garden center or start the plants indoors under grow lights. - Source: Internet
• Choose among annuals that will provide a glorious show in their first (and only) year. Or perennials that bloom from year two and onward. Selecting a mix of annuals and perennials will ensure your gardens will always be in bloom. - Source: Internet
• While your wildflowers are establishing, remove weeds by hand. Careful not to remove any of the wildflower plants though! Charlock, Oilseed Rape and Wild Mustard are tall yellow flowers that should be removed by hand once identified. In Autumn, when your wildflowers have finished flowering, cut the meadow or wildflower area back to about 7cm in height, this will give new and existing plants better access to light. Removing the cuttings Then remove the cuttings, this will ensure the new and existing plants are not smothered out and will also help keep the soil fertility low. - Source: Internet
• Once the meadow is finished flowering and freezes kill the last of the asters to the ground, consider the beauty in the structure and golden colors of standing seed heads and grasses, which the birds will appreciate well into the winter. If you need to tidy up, mow the meadow down in November or leave it stand until early spring. Mow high (6-8” or higher) and wildlife will continue to nest and forage in the meadow through the winter and spring. Mowing every year is not required; its primary purpose is to discourage woody shrubs and trees from taking over. If you have a large meadow area, consider mowing only one-third or one-quarter of it each year, leaving the rest for winter habitat. - Source: Internet
• You can plant wildflower seeds any time of year because temperature and moisture levels trigger the seeds to germinate. However, environmental factors such as birds and strong winds may reduce the number of seeds. The best time to plant wildflowers in most areas is in the fall. - Source: Internet
• The garden pansy (Viola × wittrockiana) is one of the most beloved bedding plants for the cooler spring and fall weather. Wild pansy (V. tricolor) will bloom continuously until frost. - Source: Internet
• It’s best to start in a small area, but consider 400 square feet to be a minimal size for a wildflower meadow – this space can support a good diversity of wildflower species. Some types of wildflowers get quite tall and may tend to lean or flop, but they will help hold each other up if planted densely in an area where they will not interfere with walkways or other landscape features. A wildflower meadow is informal by nature, and can be a bit wild and untidy looking at certain times of the year, so locate it where it will be viewed from a distance of several meters or more. For a neater, more designed meadow look, purchase small transplants instead of starting from seed, and plant in intentional groupings as in a garden. - Source: Internet
• Native bees and other pollinators are essential to the successful production of many fruit and vegetable crops and the reproduction of many plant species in our surrounding environment. Wildflower meadows and gardens are extremely valuable habitat, providing floral resources, nesting sites and a protected environment for hundreds of bee species, moths and butterflies, and other insects. Many birds, bats, small mammals and some amphibians also thrive on the food and shelter that a meadow ecosystem provides. - Source: Internet

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